Saturday, August 1, 2020

The Tree of Heaven

The ghetto palm in its natural habitat

The Tree of Heaven* is also known by its international colloquial name, the Ghetto Palm,  because it thrives in the worst conditions. It's been intentionally brought to the New World from Asia for centuries, both for its exotic ornamental qualities, and its basic use as a fast-growing shade tree that reaches up to the vast ecosystem in the sky at an exceptional rate.
*Also called ailanthus, varnish tree, and chouchun (Chinese, foul-smelling tree).

Now it's considered an invasive species. Its unstoppable juggernaut root system crumbles anything made of concrete, from sewers to foundations to highways and bridges. It also crowds out indigenous species by releasing a toxin (ailanthone) into the soil via its roots and fallen leaves. It isn't affected by herbicide; it is the herbicide.

At this time of year, in the heat of summer, it's spreading like wildfire. Not only does it produce an extraordinary amount of seeds, but it sprouts from its indomitable lateral roots, and almost 100 feet away from the source tree. You don't even have to look for it; you will know it's there by its smell. If you don't know, you will in a minute.

The Tree of Heaven smells bad. Like what? "Bad," that's what.

Can you be a little more descriptive?

Not really. We are so bad at describing bad smells. In fact, the corpus of words used in olfactory science is skewed way to the good. We have many more words for good smells than we do for bad. There's a few reasons for this, one being that we don't like to think about bad smells long enough to generate descriptors. When it comes to bad smells, "objectionable" "disagreeable" "noxious" "offensive" and "smells like shit" will suffice.

We already don't talk about smells much as it is; why waste that precious sensory indulgence on things that smell bad? We also don't like to talk about bad smells, because it can get socially complicated. You're not going to mention a bad smell while with your boss, and that's in case they are the source of it! We don't want to make them look bad. It's also too personal. It's just good social etiquette in general to not talk about bad smells, at all.


We also don't stop and take a second whiff when something smells bad. Flowers yes, the Tree of Heaven no. It will activate your disgust response, you'll reflexively twist your head back, flare your nostrils, and curl your upper lip. And you will not be going back for seconds.

Unless you're me. I've been trying to smell the Tree of Heaven for years now. It was introduced to me circa 2008 by a friend who lived on a farm; we were touring his property. "We call it the jizz tree," he said with a nervous giggle, him and his girlfriend. I don't remember smelling it, maybe it wasn't in season, who knows. I don't remember seeing it either. I don't remember anything except that there's a tree that smells like semen.

Later on I wrote a book about the language of smell, and shortly after that I came to the realization that I'm anosmic to putrescene, which means I cannot smell semen. Smellblind. People are smellblind to all kinds of things, bad things more often it seems, and roughly half of us are anosmic to something (natural gas and rotten fish will come up a lot, because they're talked about a lot, because it's a safety issue, right?).

I'll bet there's less people that know they're anosmic to putrescene. There are some people who are completely anosmic to everything, from birth, and don't realize it until they're ten years old. Kids don't even know that they have a sense of smell, and they certainly don't notice if it goes away temporarily, as in the case of those infected with the novel coronavirus of 2019 (the condition will present as them skipping meals and not being hungry, but it's likely because they can't smell).

Back to the tree. I started to notice the Tree of Heaven invading my extended neighborhood once I began taking the train for school. They grow along the train tracks really well, and they grow fast. After an extreme weather event, like drought, flood or fire, they are the first to pop back up, because they go dormant into their roots, conserve resources, and wait. They looked strange to me only because they were growing so fast. Within the first year of my taking the train, they had already grown from 5 to 20 feet. I started to notice them elsewhere, and once I started to look, there they came; these things are everywhere.

I looked them up, and found this notable characteristic -- this is the famed semen tree I've been hearing about, but never smelled. But it could be sumac, they look pretty darn close. In fact, the easiest way to identify it is to break off a leaf at the stem and smell it. If your head snaps back, it's the Tree of Semen, I mean Heaven. I went outside and grabbed a leaf, and as expected, couldn't smell anything. It could also be sumac; although it turns out I was wrong. 

Months later, I see one on the street and decide to try again, and rip off a leaf. It smells, kind of bad, maybe not, definitely not noxious, is it chocolate? Bad chocolate? What does that even mean? I must investigate further, because there's something there, although it's faint. Maybe it's just the beginning of the right season, who knows. Maybe it's still sumac.

A couple weeks later, it's getting hotter, a 12-day heat wave which is rare where I live, and I'm waiting in a parking lot for my laundry to finish (you can't wait inside, because of the virus). I'm in the back of the parking lot, against the train tracks, where there's shade, from the shade trees... There, I see it again... and now it's everywhere, I take a piece, break it off, and my goodness. My head snaps back. Terribly offensive.

I look it up again -- sumac makes red bunches of fruit, tree of heaven makes neutral colored and later in season pink to reddish-colored seed pods that kind of like maple tree "helicopter" seeds. I now confirm it is in fact the Tree of Heaven. And so is that what semen smells like? I call it pungent burnt rancid oily and dare I say, nutty, like peanuts?
Ailanthus samara seed pod, The Pennsylvania Flora Project of Morris Arboretum, 2011

How come when I look this up, in the more reputable sources such as the New Jersey Audubon Society or the Ecological Landscape Alliance, they use words like rancid peanut butter, burnt rubber, pungent, foul, and the the indispensable "smelly."

Is it because they're so "reputable" that they can't say "semen?" I think this may be half of it.

But as I go further into the informal investigation of the internet rabbit hole (this is called gray literature research, although you should probably call it reading urban dictionary entries, VICE articles and horticulturist blogs), and it starts to dawn on me. These descriptors are a mess; they're all over the place:
Rancid peanut butter, rancid peanuts, rancid cashews, cross between peanut butter and cat urine, well-used gym socks, yucky cooked meat, objectionable, disagreeable to humans, fetid-smelling, bitter, acrid, pungent, strong, and any word that refers to semen, and which can be described as a "chlorine musk," but is more directly associated with the molecule putrescene ... there's something in here about amines and ammonia also. You could also refer to it in your most prudent Victorian manner and call it simply "a man smell."
*Only the male flower smells, but both smell when their branches or stems are broken.
When I look at that list I am reminded of two things -- we are really bad at describing bad smells, and half of us are anosmic to something, and usually to bad smells.

So not only do we NOT talk about or think about the names to call bad smells, but for some of them, we can't even smell them in the first place.

When you don't talk about something, and you don't generate either a personal or a shared vocabulary for something, you will be really bad at identifying it, at discriminating it from similar things, or at categorizing it in your autobiographical database. This means you're more likely to mis-assign a name to the smell, calling plant-semen "dirty gym socks" instead. I may need some help here, because again, I'm smellblind to it, but does semen smell like dirty gym socks?

Furthermore, when you're presented with a cocktail of bad smells, as would be expected emanating from a living biochemical reactor*, you may be missing a major component of the mixture due to smellblindness to one of the molecules, and that could change your impression dramatically.
*A plant's essential oil is not the same as an isolated synthetic compound, because olfaction is a combinatorial affair, shown from about 2015 research and on.

If you combine all these factors together, you get one dirty mess of a database. There is no absolute, no discrete points. If you could manage to ask 10,000 people around the world  (or 1.5 million in the National Geographic Smell Survey) to describe 10 different bad smells, each a natural biologically-generated smell cocktail, what would that list look like?

That list would tell you something about the overall distribution of genetic diversity in the study population based on olfactory receptor genes, or it could tell you something about the cultural milieu of a sub-sample (like the Victorians!), but it won't tell you any better what the Tree of Heaven "really" smells like, or stink bugs for that matter.

When it comes to making sense of the world as an olfactory phenomenon, you're on your own. Olfactory reality is not a consensual reality. And that's unsettling, because in the Information Age, approximation seems like failure, no?




Post Script: 
Within days of my most recent experience with the potent odor of this tree, I can now smell it as a drive down the highway, from the trees on the side of the road. In my typical self-induced pseudo-hyperosmic fashion, I have become very sensitive to it.

This reminds me of an idea about regeneration of olfactory neurons and combinatorial perception, and as it relates to people recovering from the novel coronavirus of 2019. After some traumatic disturbance to your olfactory neurons, like from being attacked by a virus, you may experience changes in smell or taste. This is also called anosmia, partial anosmia, or phantosmia, the last referring to not a loss of smell but a change in the way things smell.

Phantosmia, like all phenomena in olfactory science, is not understood enough to say much from an evidenced-based point of view. I'm making a broad speculation here, not to explain, but to make someone interested enough that they will investigate further for themselves, and maybe even initiate more research into the topic.

The change in smell that comes from phantosmia is common, but its origins are often overlooked. It likely signals a change in the structure of neurons used to smell. These are the only part of your brain that pass the blood-brain barrier and rest outside your skull, in the mucous atop the epithelium skin way up in the top of your nostril canal (right where they swab that sample for your PCR test by the way, and not a coincidence). These neurons are thus both very vulnerable to damage, and able to regenerate indefinitely.

Combine this with another fact about olfaction -- it is combinatorial. That means when you smell "apple," there are a bunch of different receptors all lighting up in a pattern that means "apple." There is no Apple gene. For some there are, but for the most part, no. No single gene codes for any single cell. Olfaction is all gestalt. Take one piece out, and the entire picture gets weird as hell. Something's wrong but you can't tell what. So your brain misfires, it says "cigarette smoke" when it's really something else entirely. But after damage to your system, it is re-learning how to smell. Your nose-brain is a deep learning neural network that requires countless iterations to "learn" what a smell is. And while it's relearning after an infection, it gets confused.

In a very mild manner, and for reasons I will attribute to having been infected myself, my Tom Ford Italian Cypress lost its depth and presented as cinnamon and bubblegum, for about three days. If you've ever smelled Italian Cypress (and if not good luck it's discontinued since 2014), you would know that it does NOT smell like cinnamon and bubble gum. That's happened to me once before, and I will now assume it was because I was then also infected with a virus. But I got lucky, it wasn't bad, just weird.

And another thing -- when faced with new smells, we tend to call them bad. After repeated exposure, we can start to see them as good, but it's more likely we call them bad at first. So if your system is relearning how to smell, then lots of typical odor exposures will present as "bad" to you, simply by their being new, that is, new to your newly developing system. And all of the sudden, anything that doesn't compute properly on your new system will become "cigarette smoke," for example. Rotten meat is another good one for this, but it could be anything really (and it could also be really debilitating, just imagine.)

Eventually, the system will recalibrate and relearn how to smell, and you'll be back to normal. But that doesn't always happen. Blunt trauma can kill those neurons forever. Really bad infections too. Sometimes it doesn't come back because you're not using it, like therapy after a stroke, it only comes back if you try really hard to use it.

And some of us, well, we're just getting older. Things don't work like they used to. And not only that, changes in smell can predict all kinds of neurological diseases decades in advance (Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, etc.).

All this being said, my system has apparently, and finally, learned how to smell the Tree of Heaven.



Some good recent research on genetic variation in olfactory receptors:
Did You Smell That No I Didn't
Jan 2020, limbicsignal.com

And the most relevant among them for today:
Any two individuals differ by ∼30% of their olfactory receptor subtype genome.
Mainland JD, et al. (2014) The missense of smell: Functional variability in the human odorant receptor repertoire. Nat Neurosci 17(1):114–120.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24316890
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3990440/

The human olfactory genome contains 418 intact odorant receptor genes and their 912,912 intact odorant receptor alleles.
The 1000 Genomes Project (2008-2015), the largest public catalogue of human variation and genotype data.
https://www.internationalgenome.org

Pop Search Trivia:
"Tree of heaven smells" like peanut butter, #1 search result. (July 2020)

What is the tree that smells like dead fish?
(Callery pear trees)

What is the tree that smells like peanut butter?
(Butterfly tree or peanut butter shrub)

What are other trees that smell?

  • Callery pear, Bradford pear tree - flowers emit dead rotten fish semen trimethylamine dimethylamine
  • Maidenhair, Ginkgo bioloba tree - female fruit produces putrid rotten eggs vomit
  • Chinese chestnut tree - male flowers emit "off-putting" smell; again I think this smells like semen and it's just not said that way because it's uncouth!
  • Linden tree - smells like semen? How could it smell like semen and yet someone else says it smells like the most powerful fragrance in the plant kingdom, of honey and lemon peel?

Notes:

Best source of information on this topic:
Ecological Landscape Alliance - Tree of Heaven, An Exotic Invasive Plant Fact Sheet - May 2014

Identify and Disambiguate:
New Jersey Audubon Society - How to Correctly Distinguish Invasive Tee-of-Heaven from Native Sumac - July 2018

Post Post Script:
This gal is trying to decode the bad smell network; I made an odor descriptor-molecule network graph of her research with a regional air quality odor complaint database, interesting work, under-explored territory.

In word-searching the list from the Curren's study, "amine" turns up "fishy" and "pungent" via trimethylamine, and "pungent" via ammonia; no mentions of semen ever.

"Pungent" then brings up pentanal, 2-pentanone, formaldehyde, ammonia, trimethylamine. And  "rancid" connects to butyric acid. "Rotten" brings the expected hydrogen sulfide and dimethyl trisulfide from "rotten eggs" and "rotten vegetables."

A Case Study of Odor Nuisance in the South Coast Air Quality Management District 
Curren, J. 2012. Characterization of Odor Nuisance. UCLA.

What the Hell Does a Stink Bug Smell Like?


Thursday, July 23, 2020

DEET Works





If you're not from the United States, you might not know about DEET. It's like a weapons-grade insect repellant, better than citronella (sorry to the naturopathic chemophobes out there). And if you're not from the U.S., you might not care about DEET, because you don't get mosquitos. As one living in the Northeast specifically, DEET is a household name (and sure, citronella plants abound in carefully defended backyards).

Since its widespread use in the 1940-50's, nobody has had a good idea of how it casts that magic spell. Does it smell really bad to mosquitos and actually repel them? Does it deactivate their smell receptors? Does it lower the rate of evaporation of our smelly sweat vapor, giving us a kind of odor-invisibility?

This is hard work you know. Mosquitos are pretty small, so getting inside their little brains is a bit difficult.

But scientists, man, they're smart. Instead of picking apart tiny insect brains, they use genetic engineering to tell how the bugs are being affected. To clarify, they're not using the DEET to genetically alter the bugs. Instead, they're making a genetic change to the mosquitos which makes it really easy for them to record their odor experience.

In fact, you may have already heard of this one -- fluorescent neurons. That's right, they genetically alter the mosquitos so that when/if their smell receptors activate in the presence of a human-sweat-odor-molecule, they literally light up.

And it turns out that the odor-masking theory is looking pretty good. I'm not sure how they do this, but they measured the actual amount of human odor molecules reaching the insect's antennae, and found way less after having sprayed the person first with DEET.

So DEET works, and this is why. And yes, citronellol works too, although its effect is not as potent.

And you know what is the absolute best mosquito-repellant, 100% effective? A fan. That's right. Next time you're sitting in your backyard, and the bug spray is wearing off, grab an oscillating fan and an extension cord. Problem solved, and no lingering smells afterwards.

image source link

Notes
Oct 2019, phys.org


Post Script
Citronella oil has been a registered insect repellant in the United States since 1948.

Post Post Script
General Mosquito was a brutal and feared leader in the Sierra Leone Civil War at the turn of the 21st century. He has his own wikipedia page. General Mosquito Killer, however, does not have his own page. He was even scarier than General Mosquito, as you might guess.


Thursday, July 2, 2020

Healthy Brains


An interest in olfaction has me following the anosmic effects of this disease. A career as an industrial hygienist has me posting public health information on this olfactory awareness weblog:

Our sense of smell is a secret weapon in the fight against the 2019 novel coronavirus.

1. Loss of smell (anosmia) is a primary symptom of Covid-19.
2. Covid-19 may cause neurological damage.
3. This is not a coincidence.

Most people don't realize it but your sense of smell offers very sensitive diagnostics for complex brain activity, like how it can predict Alzheimer's decades in advance. This is because our sense of smell has special connections with the brain that other senses don't have. This also gives us an opportunity to monitor our own "brain health," and that's the main reason I'm sending this.

I'll let this recent BBC article on the topic fill-in the details; it's not long:
How Covid-19 can damage the brain - BBC Future


SEE UPDATE (7/25) ON NEW INFORMATION FROM HARVARD SPH BELOW


If you don't read that article, and if you're about to stop reading this, please:

  • Pay attention to changes in smell or taste, both for you and those around you.
  • Changes in smell and taste are a primary symptom for Covid-19.
  • Changes in smell and taste, in general and aside from a Covid infection, could be a sign of neurological issues and may warrant attention from a professional.
  • The sooner you recognize neurological issues the better.


WHERE CAN I GET MORE INFORMATION?

Monell Anosmia Project - US Organization studying smell and taste

AbScent - UK Organization raising public awareness of smell loss
https://abscent.org

National Institute on Deafness and Other Communicable Disorders (NIDC) - Smell Disorders
https://www.nidcd.nih.gov/health/smell-disorders

ENT UK - Loss of Smell as Marker of Covid-19 Infection
https://www.entuk.org/sites/default/files/files/Loss%20of%20sense%20of%20smell%20as%20marker%20of%20COVID.pdf

[x] image source link

Post Script:
The ability to detect smells predicts recovery and long-term survival in patients who have suffered severe brain injury, a new study has found. A simple, inexpensive 'sniff test' could help doctors to accurately diagnose and determine treatment plans for patients with disorders of consciousness.

Published in the journal Nature, ...

Simple sniff test reliably predicts recovery of severely brain injured patients
May 2020, phys.org
https://medicalxpress.com/news/2020-04-simple-reliably-recovery-severely-brain.html

Olfactory sniffing signals consciousness in unresponsive patients with brain injuries, Nature (2020). DOI: 10.1038/s41586-020-2245-5 , www.nature.com/articles/s41586-020-2245-5


UPDATE ON NEW INFORMATION
Eric Song et al. Neuroinvasion of SARS-CoV-2 in human and mouse brain, Journal of Experimental Medicine (2021). DOI: 10.1084/jem.20202135

David H. Brann et al. Non-neuronal expression of SARS-CoV-2 entry genes in the olfactory system suggests mechanisms underlying COVID-19-associated anosmia, Science Advances (2020). DOI: 10.1126/sciadv.abc5801

Trying to Make Sense of Long COVID Syndrome, Dr. Francis Collins. NIH Director's Blog, January 19th, 2021. https://directorsblog.nih.gov/

Harvard Medical School, coming with all the hot smell data these days, figures out what's going on with the covid smell loss problem.

I'm pretty sure you already know this, but just in case -- covid-19 can cause changes in smell or taste. It's a primary symptom, and the number one symptom for identifying infection (also the earliest; others may not show up until days later). The problem is that most people don't even know they have a sense of smell in the first place, so they don't notice that it's missing.

We thought it was the actual neurons themselves getting attacked and damaged by the virus. This is certainly possible, because your olfactory neurons, which are like little brain fingers with special neuron cells at the very tips, and are the only part of your brain that reach across the blood-brain barrier, outside the body envelope, and into the world. 

Imagine a piece of your brain reaching, creeping, crawling outside your skull to sniff the world firsthand. That's your olfactory neurons. That's where they stick the swab when taking your covid test sample. Sounds pretty vulnerable. I can see the line of reasoning here.

Well we were wrong (and when I say we, I mean them, because I'm not a scientist). It's not the neurons themselves being attacked, but their "supporting cells." These nonneuronal cells are described as sustentacular cells which wrap around the neurons for structural and metabolic support, and also basal cells which are regenerative stem cells responding to damage.

The thing is, I'm not sure of the implications here. Do we actually know what causes non-obstructive virus-induced anosmia prior to this? And what are the associations between people who have it and people who later develop neurodegenerative symptoms like Alzheimer's etc.? I don't think the new information from this study lets us put our guard down. Using the precautionary principle, I would say that your sense of smell is deeply connected to core areas of your brain, and any dysfunction there should prompt you to investigate potential neurological damage. With the brain, as plastic as it is, and important to quality of life, anything out of the ordinary should be taken seriously, and as quickly as possible. 

Notes:
David H. Brann et al. Non-neuronal expression of SARS-CoV-2 entry genes in the olfactory system suggests mechanisms underlying COVID-19-associated anosmia, Science Advances (2020). DOI: 10.1126/sciadv.abc5801

This lab also just released one of the more groundbreaking reports on how olfaction works,  basically in the same week: Stan L. Pashkovski et al, Structure and flexibility in cortical representations of odor space, Nature (2020). DOI: 10.1038/s41586-020-2451-1

Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Behold the Odor Coder


AKA The Nose Decoder

It will be a very long time before a robot can smell, but it seems we are now a giant leap closer.

Researchers at New York University's Langone Health Center have simulated olfactory perception with a synthetic electronic odor signal. In laymen's terms, mouse noses were tricked into thinking they smelled something when it was actually just an electrical signal. This is kind of like the way you can open someone's skull and zap certain parts of their brain, and they will feel tingles in corresponding parts of their body, even though you're not touching those parts of their body (don't try this at home though).

In this case, the brain-zapping was accomplished by way of optogenetics, a field that if you don't know, you better, because it's taking over neuroscience.

Optogenetics is where you genetically modify neurons to be sensitive to light in the same way they are normally sensitive to electrical impulses. This creates neurons that can be activated with light instead of electricity. Fiber optic cables are then threaded to these light-sensitive neurons, giving us control at the individual neuron level, and in the case of this study, it gave the researchers control of a bunch of olfactory neurons all at once (although in the paper you may see them refer to these as "glomeruli," which are like bundles of neurons that share similar coding patterns). And for reference, the only way an olfactory receptor, or glomeruli, in your nose has ever been stimulated has been with an odorous molecule, and never with an electrical signal. (Someone feel free to correct me on this.)

But who cares?

Scientists who study these kinds of things; they care. If you can make a mouse think it's smelling something that you created from scratch (i.e., an electrical odor representation), then you can modulate that signal however you want, and test the effect on the other end. With actual odor molecules, which are the usual way to stimulate olfactory neurons, this is too difficult.

I can try to explain the importance of this in one other way -- Let's say you get your whole nose-brain hooked up to these fiber optic light tubes. (You would first need to re-code all those genes to be light-sensitive, of course, so I hope you have a good insurance plan). Now every single neuron that lets you smell can be both activated and monitored by pulses of light.

Then we have you smell a whole batch of real, molecular odorants*, and we watch the electric signals that naturally fire in your nose-brain as a response to those signals. We record those signals, and then recreate them with electrical impulses (or light pulses), and all of the sudden, you can smell the same odors, but without the odorants.

We would then have reverse engineered the signal on the receiving end of the olfactory system. This is ultimately how the artificial cochlea was created, and the artificial retina. And now you can go ahead and ask the owner of Neuralink how far away they are from threading these cables into our olfactory epithelium, and also whether your insurance covers optogenetically-enhanced genes, and you will be one step closer to the future of olfaction. And the next time we go into global lockdown (100 years from now?), we will not suffer for lack of olfactory stimulation.

*The term "molecular odorants" has not had to exist until now, kind of like an "acoustic guitar" did not exist until the advent of the electric guitar.

Notes:
Manipulating synthetic optogenetic odors reveals the coding logic of olfactory perception. Edmund Chong, Christopher Wilson, Shy Shoham, Stefano Panzeri, Dmitry Rinberg. Science 19, Jun 2020, Vol. 368, Issue 6497, eaba2357. DOI: 10.1126/science.aba2357

News Release:
Scientists decode how the brain senses smell, NYU Langone Health, June 2020.

Post Script:
There are also some interesting results from this study that support the mostly-uncontroversial yet definitely misunderstood theory of information processing in the olfactory bulb, which is that the detection of odor-representations is more of a combinatorial process, and less of a one-to-one system of odor molecules and neuron receptors. And, this combinatorial perception theory is a primary reason as to why we cannot comprehensively organize olfactory experience into subsets or primary odors. (And the reason for writing a book about the language of smell.)

Tuesday, May 5, 2020

Semantic Bingo



In olfactory research, there's a test called a pairwise similarity test that's used to measure smells, allowing researchers to construction of a map of odor perception.

It's hard to make sense out of smells; it doesn't work like the rest of our sensory system. For a bunch of reasons it's proven quite difficult to produce a model which predicts how a molecule will be perceived.

It's not broken beyond repair, but it is frustrating because we can never seem to get an airtight model that works for all smells and for all people. With hundreds of different receptors, varying over thousands of alleles, scientists often look somewhere else for the organizing principles -- they look for patterns in the words themselves.

In a study from 2015, distributional semantics is used to create an odor map. They say it's the first attempt to do so. This technique rests on the theory that words occuring in similar contexts are in fact similar. Some of you might remember this as "context clues;" if you come across a new word while you're reading, use the surrounding context to help you guess what the word means.

So instead of trying to make a map of molecular features and receptor actuation potentials, they make a map of the words themselves. They use large text datasets, i.e., really big books, one of which was the Sigma-Aldrich Flavors and Fragrances catalog, then score words based on their co-occurances in the text.

I started this post just so I could paste these lists of words, so let's get on with it. On a scale of 0-1, how likely is it that these words can be interchanged?

Similarity Test:
bakery-bread  0.96
grass-lawn       0.96
dog-terrier      0.90
bacon-meat    0.88
oak-wood        0.84
daisy-violet     0.76
daffodil-rose   0.74

Nearest Neighbor Test:
apple - pear, banana, melon, apricot, pineapple
bacon - smoky, roasted, coffee, mesquite, mossy
brandy - rum, whiskey, wine-like, grape, fleshy
cashew - hazlenut, peanut, almond, hawthorne, jam
chocolate - cocoa, sweet, coffee, licorice, roasted
lemon - geranium, grapefruit, tart, floral
cheese - grassy, butter, oily, creamy, coconut
caramel - nutty, roasted, maple, butterscotch, coffee

Notes:
Kiela, D., Bulat, L. & Clark, S. Grounding semantics in olfactory perception. Assoc. Comput. Linguist. 231–326 (2015).

Distributional Semantics – represents the meanings of words as vectors in a “semantic space”, relying on the distributional hypothesis: the idea that words that occur in similar contexts tend to have similar meanings.